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Crafting diamond fire and sparkle

Uncharted territory

Dispersion (seen as fire) and scintillation (seen as sparkle) are critical components of diamond performance, but diamond grading laboratories don't yet measure them.

Why aren't they graded?

  1. Fire and sparkle are hard to quantify: The world has an infinite panorama of illumination scenarios and each of them creates different output potential.
  2. Human physiology varies: Average pupil diameter is different, person to person, and even changes with age, so some people perceive dispersed spectral fans as color (fire) better than others.
  3. Economics. Today's cut grades are notoriously factory-friendly. Stricter requirements would meet heavy resistance from within the diamond trade.

Since they are not graded, there's no motivation for producers to develop the knowledge and spend the extra time and (most notably) expense of carat weight needed to fine-tune a diamond for optimum fire and sparkle. Most diamonds are planned and cut to minimum brightness level needed to "make the grade."  You can read more information about current cut grading standards here.

Your opportunity

After reading the below you will know more about diamond optics than many jewelers. We're not kidding. An investment of just 10 minutes here will explain why you already see quality differences between diamonds with the same laboratory cut grade, and how your visual palate can improve with time. It will be especially interesting to engineers, architects, mathematicians and science professionals.

Furthermore, you will come to understand why we constantly say that many people, even jewelry professionals, have never experienced the fire, sparkle and life of diamonds that are fine-tuned with the focused goals of Crafted by Infinity.

Crafting more fire and sparkle

Prerequisite = Brightness

Brightness is a prerequisite, but it's not a given. All diamonds look bright under jewelry store spotlights but many go dark in normal and low social lighting, muting the qualities of dispersion and scintillation in those conditions.

Better Brightness

To ensure that 100% brightness potential is realized, Crafted by Infinity concentrates on all 57 facets' critical angles (not simply on group-averages as the labs measure). Tuning each facet-pair around the clock of the diamond returns all light rays back to your eyes on shorter paths with more intensity.

As a fundamental benefit every Crafted by Infinity will display robust edge to edge brightness, causing them to look bigger than others of the same weight and face-up whiter than other diamonds of the same lab color grade.   

How do we see fire?

1. Internal reflections

A diamond's external facets create a pattern of internal reflections, known as virtual facets or compound mirrors. Depending on cut-details, those mirrors can allow light to pass through (darkness), reflect light (brightness or glare) or disperse light (creating a spectral fan).

Images used with permission

2. Human physiology

If a spectral fan passes over our eye and is wider than our pupil diameter we will see color (fire). If the spectral fan is smaller than our pupil diameter the light is recombined and we will see a white flash. If it's too small, or muted, we see nothing.

Big dispersive fanSmall dispersive fan 

3. Diamond specifics

Logically, a diamond with large, unbroken compound mirrors produces wider dispersive fans. But this is not accounted-for or measured by grading laboratories.

Below are two AGS ideal diamonds (seen in AGS ASET*)

  • They received equal AGS Ideal grades, and have GIA Excellent proportions
  • Even this static view shows broken compound mirrors in the diamond on the right
  • * Compound mirror integrity occurs over a full range of tilt so a simple ASET image isn't usually conclusive, although it is in this case

Broken reflections create smaller compound mirrors and smaller, weaker spectral fans, so your eyes see more white flashes or nothing. Keeping reflections unbroken, as on the left, creates larger compound mirrors and wider, bolder spectral fans, so your pupil will see more color (fire).

In the best cases, a single, wide fan passing over your pupil will cause you to see a full suite of shifting colors, as on the left.


4. Reality Check

Fire is not graded by laboratories so there's no motivation for producers to spend the extra time and expense needed to optimize compound mirrors. And, since the world's diamonds are largely cut to the minimum level of brightness needed to "make the grade," most people have never seen a diamond fine-tuned to maximize spectral fans and fire output across all lighting conditions in this way.

Crafting More Fire

The Infinity team crafts diamonds with more fire by fine-tuning all of the internal mirrors in three-dimensions. This causes larger, unbroken internal reflections, boosting wider spectral fans of dispersion which are seen by your eyes as bigger, bolder bursts of fire. Infinity's fundamental better brightness benefit adds intensity, so you see more fire in more places, even in normal and low social lighting where other diamonds go dark.

See the Science

Crafted by Infinity wearers regularly share stories of surprise and excitement in new places. These fun airplane photos demonstrate the wide spectral fan output discussed above. Most notably, these bigger, bolder bursts of fire are produced by a Crafted by Infinity weighing just 0.77 carats.

How do we see sparkle?

Scintillation occurs when the diamond, the light source or the viewer are in motion. Generally speaking, scintillation is the shifting appearance of white and colored flashes across the crown of the diamond. However, the intensity of what we see is a function of contrast.

Anyone who has been in a dark room and had a bright light suddenly turned on knows this is a far more dynamic change than being in a dimly lit room and having a moderate light turned on. It's also safe to say that an even pattern of sharp light and dark (like a checker board) is more striking than a pattern that's mixed or muddy.

Crafting More Sparkle

The Infinity team creates more sparkle by boosting all scintillation components with contrast. Just as the white and colored flashes you see have been optimized, Crafted by Infinity boosts contrast with crisp, precision-cut facet lines and a perfectly even pattern. Along with edge to edge brightness and bigger, bolder bursts of fire, the crisp, precise faceting creates more intense "on-off" scintillation and sharper contrast your eyes see as superior sparkle. This is enhanced even more by star and lower half facet choices which perfectly balance the pattern's dynamics.


Crafting More Life!

From the day Infinity was founded Paul Slegers has focused on optimizing these visual results which are yet unmeasured and ungraded by diamond laboratories.

Better brightness, bigger bolder bursts of fire, superior sparkle and greater life through all lighting conditions. Every Crafted by Infinity Diamond is scientifically planned and precision-cut with these goals in mind.

Become a diamond sommelier

Educate your visual palate

"I still get so many compliments, and my diamond only gets better with time."

One of the wonderful things about Crafted by Infinity is visual palate improvement. Diamonds with reduced brightness, less dispersion and muddy contrast will not expand a wearer's visual cut-quality paradigms. But experiencing Crafted by Infinity day after day educates and attunes your palate, so you can more adeptly assess the quality level of other diamond jewelry. Crafted by Infinity wearers learn to better assess other diamonds by comparison, and take pride when friends ask for input and assistance with jewelry choices.

Cut is not a judgment of a moment, it's the journey of a lifetime

Unlike color and clarity, a diamond's brightness, fire, sparkle and life behave differently in different lighting. Our world presents an infinite panorama of illumination scenarios the wearer will walk through, hour after hour, day after day. Not simply a jewelry counter, where any diamond looks good. New clients enjoy the magic of their diamond in familiar places. Veteran owners report surprising new discoveries even months and years after purchase. 

It's not hype. It's not accidental.

As with wine, music and art, time and exposure bring education of the visual palate.

Like the movement of an exquisite watch or the road-hugging performance of a luxury sports car, the differences are subtle at times and obvious at others. Over time Crafted by Infinity sets itself apart, in physical and aesthetic superiority, and especially in permanent value. This is why Crafted by Infinity Diamonds come with superior benefits no other company extends.

Some of the world’s top optical scientists, appraisers and laboratory facilitators have chosen Crafted by Infinity Diamonds for themselves or their loved ones, acknowledging that Infinity's standards outpace current metrics and represent the pinnacle of diamond cut-quality. We celebrate their choice and their support, and enthusiastically invite you to join the Crafted by Infinity family.

From our hands to yours

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Design: Mainostoimisto Rinne  |  Development: Bitworkz